How To Keep Fido Happy and Healthy This Holiday

by Elizabeth Deitz on 14. Dec, 2011 in Dog Tips

With the upcoming holidays and your favorite pet being an important part of your family, there are certain foods that you should be aware are toxic to dogs at some levels.  Most people are aware of chocolate’s toxicity for dogs, but there are many other foods and plants that can ruin your holiday if your dog ingests them.

First, There Is Chocolate

There is so much of this around during the holidays (and personally,I think  that is a good thing!) Just for a review, here’s the scoop on chocolate and its effects on your dog.  Chocolate contains theobromine, which is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic. Many pet owners assume their pet is unaffected if the dog doesn’t show signs of toxicity right away after eating chocolate. However, the signs of sickness may not appear for several hours, with death following within twenty-four hours. Symptoms include staggering, labored breathing, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, tremors, fever, heart rate increase, arrhythmia, seizures, coma, and death. The more concentrated the chocolate, the more dangerous it can be for your dog. Thus cooking chocolate is the most toxic with milk chocolate the least toxic, but still toxic given a sufficient level ingested. For example, a 20-25 pound dog can become ill from as little as 2 ounces of cocoa powder or 4 ounces of cooking chocolate. Milk chocolate requires 5- 10 times that amount to cause illness or death in the 20-25 pound dog.

And Then There Is…

Garlic and onion contain thiosulphate, with onions containing the higher level of the toxin. Thiosulphate can cause the dog’s red blood cells to burst, which leads to a form of anemia resulting in labored breathing, liver damage, vomiting, diarrhea, and discolored urine. Onions and garlic in any form, including foods cooked with them (e.g. pizza) can cause thiosulphate poisoning. The poisoning shows up a few days after the pet has eaten the onion. While garlic also contains the toxic ingredient thiosulphate, it seems that garlic is less toxic and large amounts would need to be eaten to cause illness.

Other foods that are toxic to dogs are:

Mushrooms – certain varieties are fatal to dogs, primarily the Amanita phalloides, however, since these are also toxic for humans, it is unlikely for you to accidentally poison your dog with edible mushrooms.

Grapes and raisins – it only takes a handful of these little orbs to create distress for your dog and more than that can be deadly.

Almonds and macadamia nuts – these nuts and all other nuts, in general, can be toxic for your pet. Most nuts contain phosphorous that can lead to bladder stones. Macadamias are particularly heavy in phosphorous.

Apricots, peaches, mistletoe berries and avocado (leaves, seeds, stem, skin) can also be deadly to your dog.

Not Toxic But Not Good Either

Other foods, while not strictly toxic, that can cause problems for you best buddy are:

  • Raw eggs may contain Salmonella and they contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and coat problems.
  • Raw fish can result in a B vitamin deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death, especially if raw fish is fed regularly.
  • Baby food may contain onion powder, which, just like onions listed above can be toxic.
  • Yeast dough can expand and possibly rupture the stomach or intestines.
  • Cat food, while not toxic,  is typically too fatty and protein rich for dogs.
  • Alcohol can cause intoxication, coma, and death in dogs.
  • Tobacco contains nicotine which can result in rapid heart beat, coma and death.

Certain house plants can also be toxic to dogs. Inside your home, poinsettias can be somewhat toxic, although it requires ingesting somewhat large amounts to produce the ill effects.

Outside your home there are a number of flowers and other landscape plants that are toxic. Although not an exhaustive list, the following are some of the more dangerous things for a dog to ingest.

Azalea, Crocus, Rhododendron, American Bittersweet, Clematis, Daffodil, Foxglove, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus and Morning Glory.

When In Doubt

Lastly, and most importantly, if there is any question your dog may have ingested anything you fear is toxic, please call the ASPCA poison control line, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. If you think that your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, call (888) 426-4435. A $65 consultation fee may be applied to your credit card.

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The Top Dangers of the Coming Cold Weather To Your Dog

by Elizabeth Deitz on 31. Oct, 2011 in Dog Tips

We are still having warm days, but even after the seemingly endless days of summer (this year, in Austin, we had 90 days of 100+ degree heat) there is a hint that winter is just around the corner.  It is time to review important winter tips for keeping your pet healthy and happy.

Morton’s Salt (maker of the pet-safe Morton® Safe-T-Pet® Ice Melt), in conjunction with the ASPCA has developed a public service campaign to keep your dogs safe this winter – National Keep Pets Safe in Winter Day – the first day of winter, December 22. The purpose of the campaign, which runs through January 2012, is to share important pet safety tips with as many pet owners as possible to help reduce winter weather-related pet injuries and fatalities.  These tips can be found on Morton’s website.  

 Here are the winter dog care tips from the ASPCA’s website:

  1.  Never let your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm, dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags. 
  2. Thoroughly wipe off your dog’s legs and stomach when he comes in out of the sleet, snow or ice. He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws, and his paw pads may also bleed from snow or encrusted ice. 
  3. Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. When you bathe your dog in the colder months, be sure to completely dry him before taking him out for a walk. Own a short-haired breed? Consider getting him a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly. For many dogs, this is regulation winter wear. 
  4. Never leave your dog alone in a car during cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death. 
  5. Puppies do not tolerate the cold as well as adult dogs, and may be difficult to housebreak during the winter. If your puppy appears to be sensitive to the weather, you may opt to paper-train him inside. If your dog is sensitive to the cold due to age, illness or breed type, take him outdoors only to relieve himself. 
  6. Does your dog spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities? Increase his supply of food, particularly protein, to keep him, and his fur, in tip-top shape. 
  7. Like coolant, antifreeze is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle, and consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol.
  8. Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, off the floor and away from all drafts. A cozy dog bed with a warm blanket or pillow is perfect.

In addition to these fine recommendations, I have few of my own to add to the list.

  • Keep anti-freeze high on shelves in sealed containers and quickly clean any spills/leakage.
  • When temperatures drop below freezing, limit outdoor time for pets.  Coats and booties can help your dog stay warm. In particular, short-haired or elderly dogs benefit from wearing a coat or sweater.  Also since sick or older dogs are more sensitive to cold weather, be very careful with them. For any dog sensitive to the cold take him outdoors only to relieve himself.
  • Dogs might seek shelter from the cold in warm spots on cars, such as hoods, so be sure to check your car to make sure no animals have taken refuge.
  • To reduce the amount of snow that collects between toes, clip the fur between toe pads.
  • To help protect sensitive paws, coat them with cooking spray before walks in very cold weather.
  • During deep snows, be kind to your dog and shovel out a potty spot for your dog.
  • The air in most houses becomes dry during the colder months, which depletes moisture from dog skin and fur. Brush your dog vigorously and regularly to improve skin, coat and circulation.
  • A thick-coated dog may needs grooming in cold weather since the fur can get wet and matted. Fur lofts and holds air thus helping the animal stay warm.
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Kids with Asperger’s Need Your Vote

by Elizabeth Deitz on 06. Sep, 2011 in Dog News

Austin Rocks!

We are very lucky in Austin to have one of the most innovative and inspiring approaches to helping kids with Asperger’s learn and practice social skills. But to take this program to the next level, and to be able to help many more children, your help is needed.

K9 Club – Autism

The program, called K9 Club – Autism  uses therapy dogs as a basis for teaching social skills. Every aspect of the curriculum and facility is designed to help kids with Asperger’s acquire and hone social skills. And they have a great time doing it!

For most children, reading social cues comes quite easily.  But children with Asperger’s need to be taught this, and in a very special way and in a very supportive environment.  Working with these specially trained dogs children are able to practice and in a way that is positive. After all, dogs are natural magnets for children. And in a socially complex world, having the opportunity to practice the social skills necessary to interact comfortably is important. The specially trained staff facilitates the interactions and guides the interactions with these non-judgemental and loving dogs. It is a miraculous thing to watch!

Pepsi Refresh Grant

K9  Club – Autism hopes to win 50K to grow this program with a grant from Pepsi. By  working with the University of Texas to document the curriculum and their successes it  will be possible to share with other organizations. It’s super easy to cast a vote! Just click here and you will be able to show your support  for this cutting – edge approach.

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Attention? Oh Please!

by Elizabeth Deitz on 19. Aug, 2011 in Dog Training

After reading an article in the Guardian concerning humans and “attention blindness” I have started to think more about what may occur with reactive dogs who are “over threshold.”

The article referred to the results of a recent study undertaken whereby people were asked whether they felt they would take notice of something significant that entered their field of vision if they were busily paying attention to something else. Over three-quarters of people felt that they would. However, there is quite a bit of research that shows this is not the case.

Would You Miss The Gorilla?

The 1999 experiment by Daniel Simons involving a gorilla entering the field of vision of people concentrating on another task is a fascinating example. Most people reported that they never saw this gorilla!  This phenomenon is called “inattention blindness” and there is additional research supporting a similar phenomenon involving hearing, called “inattention hearing.”

“The question of whether a certain sound or sight is noticed depends on the strength of the signal versus the level of ‘noise’ around,” says Lavie who is here referring to humans.

“Lavie and MacDonald’s results suggest that attention has a limited capacity that is shared between vision and hearing,” the Guardian summarizes.

In Limited Supply

This research is relevant to training dogs, as it could help us understand that perhaps, just perhaps, our dogs are not ignoring us so much as being truly blind to us or deaf to us at that moment.

Lavie and MacDonald’s research involved the sense of sight and vision primarily. With dogs, we also have the component of smell, which may in fact tax this limited attention capacity to a much greater degree than we can even imagine.

Combine those findings with the recent research showing that most people feel that they would be attentive to an unexpected event entering their visual field, when in fact they would probably not, and we can start to see where a very real misunderstanding and misjudging of our dogs may occur.

If we humans do not believe that we would be inattentive, then of course it follows that we cannot understand how our dogs could possibly be inattentive.

So when we feel like our dogs are blowing us off in situations where something other than ourselves has grabbed their attention, we might do well to remember these findings.

Seeing “attention” as being in limited supply, and understanding that we as well as our dogs have a limited attention capacity, may help us be more patient pet parents.

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Cool Off With a Bit Of Canine Art

by Elizabeth Deitz on 10. Aug, 2011 in Products

Surrounding yourself with art that is significant to you can truly lift your spirits. In Texas we are in the dog days of summer with temperatures exceeding 100 degrees for over 20 days straight. It can get a East Coast girl down! So when I stumbled upon a really beautiful painting of a young girl and two dogs on the beach it made me crave some time on some body of water with my dogs. But I will have to content myself with images of others  enjoying the water!

“Girl With Two Dogs at Low Tide” by Kathryn Freeman is the original painting that sparked this longing for cool water and a breeze.  Just looking at it helps me cool down!

Molly A. Poole’s small painting of a dog cooling off brings to mind the joy a hot dog can take in even a small pool of water! I spotted Molly’s work at the Canine Art Guild site which represents many different artists, using watercolors, oils, and pastels depicting our favorite subject. For many water-themed works of art, take some time to poke around in the Sporting Breeds section.

And this 2012 calendar sports two dogs on the cover enjoying the beach, apparently after surfing. Although we take credit for teaching our dogs, who hasn’t learned a few lessons from them on the way? ”What Dogs Teach Us 2012 Wall Calendar”  starts in September so you can get a head start! Go to Calendars.com for this and many other 2012 dog breed calendars.

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Training Deaf Dogs

by Elizabeth Deitz on 02. Aug, 2011 in Dog Training

We often think of deaf dogs as having a limitation. But there is very little that  a deaf dog can’t dog if you are creative. All dogs do what works and deaf dogs are no different. They offer the same behaviors as hearing dogs. But communicating to them that some of their behaviors are more desirable than others is the trick.

Body Language

All dogs are experts at reading  body language. But they also get information from our facial expressions.  This may be even more important for deaf dogs.  If you are working with your deaf dog, it is fine to continue using your voice as well, even though they won’t hear you, as your facial expression will change when you speak.  Although you might not be aware of it, your dog may pick up on your smiles, frowns, or neutral expressions so don’t stop speaking to Fido because he cannot hear.

Way To Go!

Start by thinking of a way to “say” to your dog “way to go!”  I usually use a thumbs up gesture, but any clear hand signal that you are comfortable with will work.  I have seen several trainers use a “flash” signal. This is a rapid opening of your fist, with fingers extended, and then closing of your fist.  One of the advantages of this over the thumbs up signal is that it is a bigger, and thus less readily mistaken, cue. An especially good job can be marked by two of the flashes, one immediately after the other.

American Sign Language can be used effectively but I prefer for owners to develop their own signals as they seem to be employed more easily than learning new signals.  This site provides video clips of gestures that you may find useful.

Next Step

After you have decided on a signal that says “good job,” you will need to associate a reward  with it.  Begin with your dog hungry and engaged.  Flash your signal and follow it rapidly with a treat. Do this ten times in a row and stop. Repeat this process several times the first day.  It is essential that you choose your time wisely, as offering a treat right after a meal will not be as much appreciated , and therefore will be a reward of less value, as a treat when your dog is hungry. Think of it this way. If you had a huge meal and someone immediately offered you steak, you would probably decline the offer.  If your dog is full, a food treat will be of little value.

Getting Your Dog’s Attention While Close By

Getting a deaf dog’s attention when they are close by is easy.  To train this, have lots of treats handy and a hungry dog. Tap your dog on the shoulder and treat. Now move to your dog’s side and repeat this, remembering to to signal “good job” when he looks in your direction. Now move behind your dog and tap his shoulder or rump. As he turns to look at you, use your “way to go” hand signal followed by a treat.  Make sure to do this in a happy upbeat manner and remember to use your word as well, as the facial expression associated with the word will help your dog to understand.  I use the word “hey” in a happy voice. Repeat 8 – 10 times in quick succession. When your dog spontaneously offers his attention, mark and treat that is well.  Anytime they offer their attention is another opportunity for you to emphasize that checking in with you is a good idea. And just as with any other dog, a reward can also be be petting, affection or a quick toss of the ball or other game.  Try to carefully evaluate what your deaf dog finds rewarding and use those high value rewards for more difficult training.  Freely use jackpots (multiple, quickly dispensed treats) for break-through moments when they have done something exceptional or done it exceptionally well.

Hide and Seek

A great game to play with ANY dog, but especially deaf dogs, is hide and seek.  While your dog is engaged with you, toss a treat behind them so that they have to turn their backs on you in order to get it.  Repeat this a few times to be certain that your dog is “in the game.”  Now when they turn their backs, quickly slip behind a wall, tree, or other barrier.  They will come looking for you. When they find you, reward heavily the first time.  This could be a game of chase (where they chase you), treats, or a toss of the ball.  It can be anything your dog finds rewarding.

Our aim here is to continue to develop this pattern of finding you and checking in with you. We have  turned it into a game.

Getting Your Dog’s Attention At A Distance

This is a bit trickier.  If you live in a house with a wooden floor, you can begin with your dog nearby, stomping once quickly, and rewarding. In the beginning, start with them close by.  After a few repetitions, try it when they are not looking at you.  If they attend to it, signal them “way to go” and reward.  Gradually extend the distance.  This approach isn’t going to work if you are far away from them, are on another floor, or have a house on a concrete slab. Flashing the room light can be used in a similar manner.

A vibrating collar or a laser pointer can also be used.  Vibrating collars are not “shock” collars.  They give a gentle shake or vibration and you can train this to signal “come.”  My favorite model, though pricey, is made by Unleashed Technology. It has a range of 1/2 mile and is a “vibrate only” collar.

I really favor vibrating collars over a laser pointer.  Most dogs learn to respond to the vibration quickly, whereas using a laser seems more difficult for some dogs.  If you chose to use a laser, be careful not to shine it in your dog’s eyes as it can cause damage.

Both of these devices need to be associated with a reward before they become useful.  Once again, it is a matter of associating the stimulus (a vibration or a flash) with a treat. Start with your dog close by. Flash the laser on the ground, or vibrate the collar, and associate it with a treat.  Gradually increase the distance incrementally.

Deaf Dog Education Action Fund

For more information about training, as well as resource lists, poke around this Deaf Dog site.

Do you have a deaf dog? Why not share what you have learned here? We are always looking for ideas!

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Do Dogs, Puppies and Kittens Do Yoga?

by Elizabeth Deitz on 26. Jul, 2011 in Products

I don’t often actually mention product here but I can’t resist doing so today. Everytime I see these 2012 Calendars it brings a smile to my face! Behold the delights of digital photography brought to you by our animal loving friends at BrownTrout Publishers. Check them out! They are in high demand so if you are as taken with them as I am, order them early.

These is even one for those lurking cat lovers!

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Rally ’Round For Rally-O

by Elizabeth Deitz on 19. Jul, 2011 in Dog Training

I suspect you might be seeing a lot about Rally – O on this blog in the near future. I’m really excited about teaching a clicker Rally class soon and my posts will follow what we are doing class. 

 Rally Obedience is a relatively new sport with the AKC adding it to their roster of titling events in 2005. It was wildly popular from the very beginning. A niche needed to be filled and the AKC as well as the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) rose to the occasion. Rally O is more relaxed and a lot fun than traditional Obedience but does not require the athleticism  (of both you and your dog) that is involved in Agility.

Rally – O is also a sport that strengthens the bond with your dog. Unlike more traditional AKC Obedience trials, you are permitted to talk to your dog, even clapping your hands,  and you follow a numbered course, rather than having a judge call a pattern. The order of the course of signs differs with each event and that keeps it always exciting.

Both the APDT and AKC offer titles. There are slight differences between them but they both emphasize working as a joyful team and having fun.

The behaviors that are necessary for competing in Rally are also quite useful in other settings. And taking your dog out and about will be much more enjoyable. Sits, down, recalls, figure 8, serpentines, spirals, U turns and more are involved.

AKC Rally

 We have many opportunities to compete in AKC  Rally in this part of the country, so I am going to concentrate most on AKC rules rather than APDT. The differences though are rather slight.

Who Is Eligible?

 You are! Any dog is eligible to enter AKC Rally competitions. Even if your dog is not a registered purebred you can compete. Mixed breeds can be registered with the AKC Canine Partners program which will make them eligible to compete in AKC Rally. So everyone can join in the fun now!

AKC Rally has 3 levels and 3 titles.

  • RN – Rally Novice. At this level dogs are on leash
  • RA – Rally Advanced. At this level dogs are off leash
  • RE – Rally Excellent. At this level dogs are off leash

 

To Click Or Not To Click – That Is The Question

 Most of the students in my class will have taken classes with me previously, so they are pretty clicker savvy. Though it is quite possible to train without using the clicker, I emphasize the value of having a clicker trained dog.  Dogs who have been clicker trained, TRULY clicker trained, are eager learners and experts at offering new behaviors.  When they are truly in the game it is a thing of beauty. Although using a word, like “yes” to mark the behavior rather than a clicker is fine, I think the clicker is more precise. I wonder sometimes whether our voice and chatter just becomes white noise. I talk to my dogs all the time, but I know that it is not their “native tongue.” They are much more adept at listening to the clicker and my body language.

You Get What You Ask For

A concept I use throughout training is that tagging or naming the behavior should be the last thing you do when training something new.  If I rush it, and name or “tag” the behavior before it is perfect, then I will be asking for an imperfect behavior. You get what you ask for!

First Step

Rally requires a sit both directly in front of you as well as on the left side in a heel position. Getting a sit is usually quite easy, and often becomes a default behavior. Pulling up on the collar and pushing the rump down is passé. It also wastes a good bit of time, as

Most dogs actively offer “sits” all day long. It is already part of their behavioral repertoire, so “capturing” it is easy. But you can also lure it easily by holding a treat discreetly in your fist, placing your fist close to your dog’s nose, and slowly bringing it up and over his head. As his nose follows it, his rump will automatically go down. It is simple doggy physics..head goes up, and rump goes down.

Click when his rump hits the ground and immediately give him the tiny treat concealed in your hand. Repeat often throughout the day, getting 6-8 repetitions in rapid succession.  In order to get these in rapid successions, throw the treat to the side, which forces him to get that rump up, so that you can lure him quickly into another sit.

Do this often, clicking and treating(C/T) until it is offered often and quickly.  When the sit looks they way you want it to, you can begin to add the cue “sit” simultaneously with him getting his bottom down. Remember that the “cue” is not  added to the behavior until it is in the state  like it to be. After 6-8 repetitions using the cue simultaneous with the behavior, you can begin to actually use it as a cue, meaning you can now use to ask him to “sit.”

At this point you can start to ask for “twofers” and “three-fors.” You can ask for two sits in a row before treating, then three sits in a row followed by a treat. You should now also be able to use either your hand signal, whioch is the raising of your hand, or the verbal cue “sit.”

Mixing It Up

 Time to start mixing it up now. Sometimes reward with a game of chase. Sometimes reward with a belly rub. Sometimes reward after two sits. Sometimes after three.

And you can now start to take it on the road. Ask for it in the backyard, the front yard, when people are around, when he follows you to the bathroom. You get the idea!

Start to ask for while your dog is at your leftside. Sometimes dogs swing their rears out a bit so that are somewhere between sitting at your left and sitting in front. An easy way to remedy this is to practice it with your dog between a wall or curb, and yourself. This forces a straight sit. You gradually move away from the wall or curb after sitting straight has become habitual.

If you use a treat bag, start doing it without the treat bag. After you ask for a sit, let your arms drop to your sides. At this point you should be able to start fading the treat bag and the treats away. Keep it fun and lively and think of ways that you can reward your dog that are unexpected and unpredictable. If you are practicing in the bedroom, and your dog loves jumping on the bed, let him jump up on the bed as a reward. Take a small handful of treats and toss them up in the air if he has done something especially well. Don’t always have the treats on your body, but rather have them occasionally on a table or chairclose by. Keep it light and lively.

Attention Please!

In Rally as in all competitive obedience, you want your dog to give you his attention.

Here is how I start to get this behavior. With my dog in a sit by my left side, I wait patiently for him to look up at me. If you give him a hint by coughing or in some other way trying to get his attention you are cheating! Don’t make it too easy for Fido. You want him to figure out that if he starts to offer behavior he may hit the jackpot. So the first time he looks up at you, click and treat. Make sure your arms are by your sides when you do this. The first time is the most difficult. Most dogs will soon have a Eureka! moment – “Oh, THAT’S what you were waiting for.” After your first success, return your hands to your sides and wait for another glance up into your face and click/treat again. He should now start to check in with you more and more often, at which point you can start to name the behavior. Some people name this “Watch Me” but I prefer to just use my dog’s name. After 6-8 repetitions naming the behavior as he is doing it, I make the shift to using it as a cue. In other words I am now asking for his attention when I say his name.

Our next step will be a pivot to the right which helps to emphasize that you would like him to hold that position by your left side. It is a rewarding place to be quite literally!

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Subtle Dog Humor (for the dog savvy)

by Elizabeth Deitz on 11. Jul, 2011 in Humor

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Calling All Cookie Monsters and Treat Whores

by Elizabeth Deitz on 08. Jul, 2011 in Dog Tips, Dog Training

“Me want Cookie! Me eat Cookie! Om nom nom nom. …Me want Cookie. Me eat Cookie” etc. Does this sound like your dog? Or does Fido fail to put out unless you show ‘em the money?

In response to a post I wrote last week, Cyndi wrote “Great article! What about phasing off treats completely? At least for long enough to complete a CGC Test or Pet Therapy Evaluation? I can usually maintain attention for about 5-10 minutes and then I get the glazed over “whats in it for me?” look and it’s all downhill from there!”

 I’ve seen that look too! What a great, and eternal, question!

There is a little bit of training lingo I need to get out of the way first though.

Variety Is The Spice of Life

 In training parlance, we have “reinforcement schedules.” There are several different types, but the most promising for our purposes are “fixed ratio” and “variable ratio.”

In the early stages of training a behavior, we often use a fixed ratio schedule of 1:1. In other words, one reward for every 1 behavior performed.  Unfortunately, sometimes we get stuck there and don’t plow onward and upward to the next level.  It is admittedly a big switch to go from fixed to variable ratio.  But there are a couple of tools that I find helpful and make it easier and more fun.

It is often difficult to get out of this rut. I think as humans , we  look for regularity and patterns and easily get in ruts.  I realized this once very clearly while at a seminar. After breaking for lunch, I returned to “my” seat, only to find someone else in it! After sitting there for a mere four hours I somehow came to expect that it would be there for me and that I had claim to it.  The reason I bring this up is that it shows two things. Firstly, I felt entitled to that seat even though I had really had no claim to it, and secondly, I was really rather put out by it!

My dog- related point here is that I felt entitled very very quickly, as do your dogs when it comes to treats.

Predictably Predictable vs. Predictably Unpredictable

An interesting way to get out of that predictable treat dispensing mode is to use a method that helps you be random , for instance  random.org. I’ve tried to do this without using random.org  but I fell quickly into another, albeit different, pattern. At this site, you can use the sequence generator to give you a random sequence of numbers you can use to ensure that your variable rate of reinforcement is truly random. Say I think I could probably get Fido to do four consecutive behaviors (not necessarily all the same as we don’t want to bore him) without a treat. Random.org produced these numbers for me: 1,4,3,5,2. So I will do 1 behavior:1 treat, then 4 behaviors:1 treat, then 3 behaviors:1 treat, and so forth.

This is one step into the “Predictably Unpredictable” arena. But we really are aiming much higher than that!

Not All Rewards Are Created Equal 

There are many ways that our dogs can be rewarded, and they are trying to tell us this each and every day. We are not listening, or at least, I am not listening well.  What does your dog find rewarding? How about a great big sniff of a frog in the garden? Or a game of tug of war? Or a few moments of being allowed on the usually – off – limits bed? Or the chance to terrorize that squirrel? Perhaps the opportunity, while on leash, to great another dog. These are all employable as rewards.

Grab a pen and jot down 30 things your dog likes or does often. (“Does often” is something we will consider next week, but I can tell you that this is related to Premack’s Principle.) Game of tug? Peanut Butter? Belly rub? Pulling on the leash? Chasing an ice cube across the floor? Giving you kisses?

We are going to do two separate things with this list. The first is to rank these rewards in value from the highest to the lowest. So #1 might be roast beef, #2 might be chasing a squirrel and #3 might be a game of Frisbee. If you are training a new behavior , a difficult behavior, or are training in a difficult context, then reward from the top five on this list.

Now go to random.org again.Randomize numbers from 1 – 30 and assign them in the order given from the top of your list to the bottom. So now a bite of chicken might be #1 and #2 might be a belly rub, and #3 might be the opportunity to chase a squirrel.

Getting Ready,Set,Go for The Test

 Here are some things to consider when readying your dog for any test, exam or evaluation:

  • Have you over-practiced? By this I mean, practicing the behaviors you will be tested on with greater distractions than you will encounter during the test,and  for longer periods of time than you are likely to encounter during the test. Consider also practicing at greater distances. 
  •  Have you visited, or simulated the environment in which the test will be taken?
  • Have you become totally familiar with any written material you will be tested on? Knowing the material backwards and forwards will help you feel confident and relaxed, and this in turn will help your dog to relax. 
  • If you have a small dog, know if/when/where you may be allowed to carry him.
  •  Do you know exactly how many times you are permitted to give the cue? 
  •  If a component of the test is temperament testing, doing you know whether your dog is allowed to lay down, sit or stand in each scenario?
  • Have you practiced all your cues with voice and hand signals together as well as separately?
  •  Does your dog do better after a swim, a long run, or a walk? Have you planned to do this before your test? 
  • If your dog is upset by baths, have you taken this into consideration? How do you plan to handle your stress? 
  • Would a good walk or run help you to remain calm? 
  • Does your dog work better when he is hungry? Or does that make him obnoxious?  If he is full, be sure to allow time for him to eliminate before the exam.  
  • Have you habituated your dog to the sights, smells and sounds he will encounter during the test? 
  • If you are not allowed treats or toys during the exam, have you developed a stratagem for rewarding in other ways (rough housing, belly rub, tricks he likes to do?
  •  Have you faded away any food reward you have been using? 
  • Are toys acceptable during any part of the exam?
  •  Between segments of the test, are you permitted to play/work with your dog? Have you planned to take advantage of this time to get /keep your dog “in the game?”
  •  Do you have some handy banter ready for any encounters with people you may have during the exam? For example, what do you plan on saying when children approach your dog? Have you actually role played with others so that your banter is natural and does not sound rehearsed? Have you prepared for the unexpected?
  •  How will you greet the evaluator and how will you introduce your dog? First impressions can be lasting! 
  •  Do you have all the necessary paperwork ready? This may include vaccination records, a clean bill of health from your vet, etc.
  •  Do you know what equipment you are allowed to use? Have you worked your dog sufficiently in that equipment? This is no time to buy a new harness and try it out on test day!
  •  Have you prepared yourself to be observant of your dog?  How does your dog display stress? Are you prepared to stop the exam if he is less than happy about the situation? Keep in mind “The Invisible Gorilla” experiment…if you are not actively  looking for something (signs of stress) you  may not see it.
  • Have you familiarized your dog to people of different races? To medical equipment that may be present? To loud voices, slurred speech, and petting in unconventional ways (roughly,with elbows or clenched fists?) 
  • Do you know when you can repeat cues during the test or use additional cues? For instance, if you are doing a recall can you add “Leave It” if your dog veers off to visit a child or dog? 
  • In some tests or exams, the handler is being evaluated also. If this is the case, are you ready to be proactive with your dog, rather than reactive or inactive?      

Go Premack!

 Just a brief mention of the Premack Principle here with a video of the principle in action.  Watch this video and think how you might utilize it in your training/playing. More about this in a post next week, but this will give you something to think about. 

 
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